Monday, August 3, 2009

Recap of my 2007 Trip To Gambia














Before I begin blogging about my 2008 trip to Gambia I want to make a recap of my trip from 2007.

......

This is from my journal at the time....

Abdul-Infinite... coming to live from the motherland, the historical lands of the great Muslim King Mansa Musa the outer extensions of his Islamic Mali Empire. The history here is deep. They used to be the wealthiest in the world. But the white man changed all that when he came here 400 years ago, and on my first day I tried to breathe in the history of the land and people.

I left on Nov. 1rst, and my plane ticket going back to America is on Dec. 1rst. So that gives me one month. I'm a broke dude, that lives on small means in America, but I tried to come up with just enough for this 1 month trip, Allah protect.

First stop is Senegal. You all might know it as the home of Akon. Akon is so huge here, he's a source of national pride. They also love hip-hop here, it's nice to see how much love the African's have for 2pac. He's a legend here, as big or bigger than Bob Marley.

My first day I visited Goree. It's the most famous and historical slave island in the world. The white man started coming to Africa around 400 years ago, and this slave house island was origionally biult and developed by the Porteguese. Later it was used by, and fought over, by a few European countries such as the Dutch.

You get to physically go inside the 400 year old slave houses and see what the life was like inside... I went myself deep into the solitary confinement hole, where the tour giude said they used to stuff 15 people at a time. Then there is one room, where they said they used to keep the "Yoruba" people, who are mostly the strongest Nigerians who were breaded to be the most physically brute slaves, and the tour giude, who was a local who lives in an undeground cave that used to be a military bunker, told us that's why America has the best athletes in football and basketball.

You see the upper deck where the white slave masters traded, and watched over the slaves. Then, if you go out the back it is the Ocean, which they call the "point of no return"... bye, bye Africa, seperated from family and never to return. This part brought tears to my eyes.

Anyway, I'm only in Senegal for a short time cause it's where I got the cheapest plane ticket. Then it's off to the country next door, Gambia, and I'm am looking forward to it, cause the US dollar is stronger in Gambia, and that's the only hope I have to make it on what little money I have. Also, they speak English there. Here in Senegal, it's hard to communicate because they speak French, and their traditional language wolof. I've been trying to learn Wolof from the friends I've met here.

So far I feel much more comfortable here than the Arab countries I've been too. They love foriegners here, and they know how to make you feel at home. Also, for a Muslim country they are very open in mixing with men and women, the society is a very open, loving, and beautiful people.

Senegal exceeded my expectations (and took most of my money) but so far I am dissapointed with Gambia (although it is much cheaper and less expensive here).

Everywhere you turn in Senegal it is visually stimulating, the way people interact, the way the women do the hair, the fashions, the styles, the scenary, the music and dance is everywhere in Senegal, and I heard alot of great music I'd never heard before.......

....but here in Gambia it is dirty, dirt poor, the place I was staying at when I first got here, they didn't even have soap (I know they use soap themselves when they wash, so I don't know why it wasn't in there) when I asked for it, but they sent one of their maids to go buy me some. The electricity can sometimes go out for a period of time during the day. I can give other examples of stuff later. And the shower wasn't workign so they gave me buckets of water to wash up with. Someone in the streets tried to act like he knew me and was a customs officer I passed coming in, and said he was in an emergency, to loan him some money, and trick me and all this stuff. Also, the people have a depressed look and aren't smiling and laughing with one another like senegal. It's loud, noisy, busy, and smelly here.

I just got here, so this is all an early assesment.



Peace to Everyone... here's my latest update....

I'm a week in Africa now. Yesterday was one of the most dynamic days of my entire life. I was starting to worry that I had made the wrong decision coming to Gambia. I had just spent a whole day, doing nothing, just sweating in my room, waiting for this one person to come by that had planned to take me around, but I hadn't heard from them. I was starting to contemplate leaving Gambia and going back to Senegal, and I was worried about my money situation, and all the sudden the worries started snowballing and I started distrusting my own judgements for coming here on not enough cash, or even coming here at all.

Then everything suddenly changed. The next thing I knew I was chilling at the beach with some beautiful company. I made some good friends. And later that night I was chillin at these Rasta Muslim dudes house, and meeting all the family, and we bumped Lucky Dube's music for four hours. Back in America, most people don't know Lucky Dube, but I've been a fan of him for a while... but Lucky Dube is huge in Gambia, the Gambians love Reggae, he used to come here for concerts, and the guys I was with said it was the best concert Gambia has ever seen. They played me some exclusive joints of his, the last songs he ever recorded. These were people like I've never seen before, they used the name Jah and Allah interchangeably, and they were all about peace and love. We chatted about everything from remembrance of Allah, to 2pac Shakur, to love, peace, justice.... they were some real cats.














They took me out that night to the clubs. The clubs were playing some of the tightest music I'd never heard before, European hits I'd never heard, tomarrow is reggae night, and they want me to come for that. But the thing is, in America I never go to clubs. I only went last night cause I was curious what the African club scene was like. But ultimately, places with smoking and drinking, and fake, dirty women aren't really my kind of places. I love the music and the dancing was cool too, but I'm looking to go upcountry for more authentically African people and experiences. The crowd last night was kind of international style.

Anyway, I haven't gotten with the really religious cats, and may not for another week, because the curious nature inside me wants to know all aspects of Africa, so I will experience more of what African have to offer Islamically maybe next week.

I visit and stay with a new family the next few days so I will see if they have anything planned for me.

Assalamualaikum...

It's both. I have friends here in the states that are from Gambia and Senegal, so they connected me with their family members... then at the same time you meet people while you are over here.

But it's not always easy, cause there is a big communication gap from the United States to here. Like, let's say one of my friends in America says, "Visit my family, because they can do this and that and take you here and there", but then when you actually get here, they may or may not do anything for you. Or, they may do something, but they are also expecting something in return. Which is okay... I don't expect people to do things for me for free, but at the same time... I'm kind of a poor brother these days... so the situation can be complex.

Let me give another update........

Things aren't going great or bad right now, things are kind of just going... I spent a couple days exercising, running, jogging, doing push-ups and swimming, and even praying along the Atlantic Ocean. The Ocean has it's own energy so alot of people run and train along it's shores.

I spent some time at the tourist spots where alot of Europeans come. Some of them come every year to this place. The locals are poor, so every wear you walk along the tourist area's, you have local people trying to get money from you. Atleast they usually offer something in return. They offer anything from music, ganga, food, drinks, art work, custom made jewelry, fresh fruit, bikes, etc., etc... Some want you to find an American wife for them cause they think that might be a ticket to aquiring some money for their family.....

Anyway.. just some miscelanous stuff... about the trip between Gambia and Senegal.... Alot of the roads aren't paved here... so there's so much offroad driving, the trip from Senegal to Gambia was mostly offroad, the car kept breaking down, and somehow the driver was able to mess with the engine to get it starting again every time... miraculously... people really do get by just by at times the will of Allah here.... along the way, sometimes people were just going to the bathroom openly on the sides of the road, you see women breastfeeding in public here, and animals just roaming about... when I was crossing the Gambia river they crammed so many people onto this boat, it was filled way above compacity.... but some people make this trip from Gambia to Senegal regularly... anyway... it is something I would definitely avoid when I have more money in the future.


That's about all for now.. I hope to have more interesting things to say next time... things are just "going" right now.... like the rasta's say, just "takin it easy, eazy does it".

It's not just about being white. It's true that they tend to think that white people have money, and the people here are poor, so because of that they can be very friendly and easy going with white folks here, because many people survive off the tourism.

However... being Muslim also takes you a long way. The people here love it when I greet them with "Assalamualaikum" or "Walakumusalaam"... it's like a code word here that means your one of them... they say, "no matter where your from, we believe the same thing, it's the same heart"... that's what they say, they love Muslims and love Islam here.

But whether Muslim or non-Muslim here, the people are not out to harm anybody. They may be out to get your money, or sell you something, but they are peaceful people not out to harm anyone.

Yet another update..

I want to look back over all this to remember things later.......

...I'm really soaking it all up now. My trip had some blessings in it, and right when things were going in the wrong direction, you can meet that one person that turns things around for you. I've been running around with this Rasta style Muslim dude who really knows his way around the country. We are going upcountry tomarrow, deeper into what he calls "the real Africa", away from the tourist places.

Yesterday we went to see some live bands, some traditional drumming and traditional dance, it was absolutely amazing and magnificent. Nothing like it.

I'm really staying in the flow now. These dudes are really cool. I keep hearing Lucky Dube's music everywhere I go along with other Reggae tunes. I really feel like the stuff Lucky Dube is saying in his music, is so deep and profound... his music is timeless. He's an African legend. If you want to know the best of what African music has to offer, ya'll really need to check out Lucky Dube.

Other popular Senegalese artists like Viviane are cool, and she's even iller than Beyonce... but if you really want to know the heart of African music ya'll got to check out Lucky Dube.

Like the Rasta's say... "Who feels it knows it... we Muslim man.. but that's just how we flex!"

That's all for today... peace to everyone.





I went upcountry, and saw what people would describe as the real Africa, the countryside, where they have houses "huts" and more of what people might picture in their mind when they think of Africa. It was very beautiful, and at the same time it was a difficult and strange journey for me. I spent too much money going upcountry, but some friends from back home have saved me and sent me some money. The people there have a way of life, standard of living, and technology that hasn't changed much over the years. Sometimes missionaries go through there and pass out pencils, pens, candy, small money, and books.. I saw some kids in a village reading "A Christmas Carol". The people there are all very devout Muslims... and even when I went to get my immunizations they asked me if I was going for missionary work. They usually assume American go there for missionary work. So anyway.. because I was a white face travelling through there the kids come running at the car all the time, because they think I am giong to pass something out.. it was kind of strange.














Here we are visiting Coconut Island. The "blessed island" as the Rasta's say because the people live purely on the herb that grows on the small island. It is the primary resource of this small island. As you see the baby ganja plants are growing freely all around us.














I also visited James Island, site of the movie "Roots" by Alex Haley. To be honest I was a little dissapointed, because I was expecting much more, the island in senegal called Goree was much more interestings. James Island has erroded over the years and there is not hardly anything left of it, and I had to pay quite a big of money to see it. But atleast now, I can go back and watch the movie and have a deeper understanding of the region.














Yesterday, I went to a "naming ceremony". After a baby is born, they wait for a few days, and then they have a large gathering of family and friends and they will read Qu'ran, and they will choose a name for the baby... they believe the name is very important because the naming of a child adds energy towards their destiny.

Also, I went to a wedding, African style. It was really cool and at the same time all done with love and respect... they had a the traditional dance and music and everything, and every woman and girl that comes spends hours getting dressed up and every one of them looks fine.

About 10 more days.. peace.

Just some random notes on Senegal and Gambia, for my own remembrance and in case any of ya'll might find them interesting.......


-The people here love Farakhan. Farakhan visits here every once in a while, and he's welcomed by everyone from the President and heads of government to the poorest man on the streets... they all love him. They don't see him as being a leader of some small, isolated "sect" of Islam in America. They see him as an international figure. They view him as an orthodox, universal Muslim brother.. They love him for bringing so many people to Islam in America, and they love him for teaching American's about their righteous African history. Some of them said they even cried listening to him talk when he came here.

-Africa moves with it's own time. You can't insist on anything here. Like for example, it would be very difficult for someone to have a daily schedule of appointments and insist on themselves or others being on time. There's many reasons for this. The traffic is bad. People don't have their own cars, and even when you take taxi's, you take group taxi's with other people. People don't rush here, they play it cool, and even when you go somewhere or ask for something... nobody ever says, "5 minutes"... or "I'll be there in 10 minutes"... they just say... "coming soon". This can be annoying, but it also teaches you to be patient and play it cool. Also, they have problems with power going out here, and other things that can disrupt your plans throughout the day, all the little things add up...... They call it "African time".

-The Rasta/Reggae culture in Gambia reminds me of the Five Percent Nation of Islam/Hip-Hop culture in America. It's kind of underground, rebellious, it's very anti-imperialism, and righteous, and hip and has it's own language and philosophy that is more about feeling it and interacting with others rather than existing in a Text. ....I want to write much more on this later.

-Unlike African American black people who can at times be paranoid and suspicious, the Africans are very open and unsuspecting people. They don't interrogate and ask alot of questions of people. They want to get to know who people are, and may even want something from you, but they aren't interested so much in where you work, where you go to school, who you hang out with, what you do in private.... and so on.

-Africans love music of course. But many of them have beat up stereo's, and somehow it's like they all end up playing the same song over and over, no matter who's car your in or what taxi you take. It's funny, this one dude's car who was driving me upcountry had a tape player that would stop about halfway through the second song on any tape he would play... so he just came playing the same two songs over and over all day. And then, somehow I end up hearing the same songs everywhere I go. One Reggae artist named Capleton (I think) I keep hearing his track it says something like.. "The Day Will Come" and that song is banging, and somehow I keep ending up hearing Lucky Dube "Prisoner" wherever I go.

-The Rasta's like to say that, "The Only Problem In Gambia Is No Problem"... but you here others say.. "the only problem in Gambia is money".. and others say... "As long as you have money Gambia is a good place". Well... there is reason for all this. When you have disparities in wealth, that contributes to what gives the country both it's good and bad qualities. Because the poor people are willing to go above and beyond to satisfy people and provide goods and services just to get a few dollars... so the people with money end up benefitting in this way.

... more later... I'm upset I'm forgetting stuff, because I haven't been able to write things down or record them in my phone like I wanted to... cause I've yet to find a converter that works in the outlets here to charge my sidekick.

Another update, a lot has happened since I last updated this thread.....

-I went and saw a couple of shows I forgot to mention in my previous update. One of them was a Senegalese band, and there was alot of dancing and interaction between the people. Some of the tourists were drinking alchohol, and a big fight broke out between some locals, because one of the tourists that was drinking was getting in the way of the show and interrupting things, and one security gaurd was trying to restrain him while the other people were saying to "Let him be" and the I don't know what else they were saying or what was happening exactly because they were speaking in Wolof but a huge fight broke out, but it didn't last long.

-The other show I went to was spectacular, it was a traditional tribal dance and drumming, the tribe is known as the Jawlah people and the president of Gambia is from this tribe. They had a man who was playing with fire, putting it in his mouth, rolling around in it, and rubbing it on his body and he never got burned... then they had somebody come in on stiltz dancing along to the music.. it was a real show you can't find anything truly like it unless you come here.

-In many of the places I go here, the kids call me "too-bob" which means white guy. They call me it like it's my name, and if I turn around they smile or laugh. I'll be walking down the streets and just keep hearing "too-bob", "too-bob".

-I finally met up with some Muslim brothers here that are a part of an international Islamic effort known as Jammat Tabligh. Which is something I'm familiar with from back home in America. I spent three days with them out in the "path of Allah" as they say. The man who took me out was a cousin of one of my friends from back in America. In America all the mosque's have air conditioning and carpets and usually have nice showers, toilets, whatever you want. But these 3 days I spent with them in Gambia was truly unique....

....The bathroom for the mosque we stayed in was just a little concrete area, where you were mostly exposed to the people as you went to the bathroom.. this is where we did our number 1... if you wanted more privacy to take a number 2... we actually went to the local people who lived around the mosque, and we would ask to use their bathroom, and it was also just a concrete area, but this one would have a makeshift door, but you are actually just sitting on two concrete slabs, if you even have a place to sit at all. I asked one of the members of the "Jammat" who was staying with us where I could take a shower and he just said "this is Africa"... I said... "What is that supposed to mean?..." and he said, "the mosques here don't have showers like in America"... and I said.. "I know, but I know you all take your baths somewhere"... anyway... we got some buckets of water, went to a neighbors house, went into a concrete corner for privacy, and that's how they take bathes here. Just some buckets of water, soap, and go in a corner concreted area....

....Also, it was too hot in the mosque, so I was sleeping outside underneathe a mosquito net. It would have actually been kind of peaceful, because I was stearing at the stars and the sky's full moon roof.. but for some reason they had some kind of Qu'ran recitation or music, or radio show playing over a loud speaker all night long in a nearby recording studio. This made no sense to me, and I tried to ask the members of my group what that was all about, and I never really understood the answer they gave me...

...anyway, aside from the conditions, my 3 days with them had some special moments. We went to the state house mosque or presidents mosque as they call it in Gambia for the Friday (jummah) prayers. I almost got to see and meet the president, but right before he came in, his security guards advised him not to enter cause the situation did not look totally secure to them and they were suspicious. The brothers I was with told me, that they are paranoid these days cause around a year or so ago there was a failed coup attempt against him. Anyway, we met the Imam for the president and some of the other people. The Imam gave us all some advice, he basically said that any hardship we face in the path of Allah, will surely pass, that any hardship in life is temporary and gave us encouragement to just keep moving forward in our lives.....

....Another special visit we made was to the Uncle of the man who gave me dawah (invitation) to become a Muslim when I was just 18 years old. This was a very special moment for me. I can remember clearly being 18 years old and not knowing anything about the outside world, and listening to this Muslim guy at work tell me about Africa and Islam in Africa, and his Uncle there who was like a father to him and took care of him and worked for the United Nations Islamic Affairs in Gambia, etc. And now, here I was 7 years later seeing all this for myself. We went to his house to visit him, and he did not dissapoint. He was a very wise and proud man. He was so happy to see me and meet me and here about his nephew in America and how he had influenced me many years ago into becoming a Muslim. Afterwards, he expressed his gratitude for us coming to visit him. He explained to me that Islam had taken me very far, so far that now it had taken me all the way to Africa to see him. And that with Islam a person always keeps moving forward, never backward. He told me that he was just a simple man, but that Islam had elevated him and gave him much dignity, and taken him to a high position in the United Nations even though he doesn't speak any English. He told me about his marriage and about having a "wife who you love like you love Islam". He talked about the way my friend in America was raised in the family to have good character, and that they are proud of him, and that that is the way they raised him. And that many Gambians are the same way....

....the next day we went to visit the Islamic school of which he is the principal. It was probably the biggest school in the whole country. It was poor, but still very organized and very impressive. They teach many subjects there, from Islamic jurispudence, Arabic, English, history, and so on. He took us around to all the classrooms to visit the students and explained that a Muslim from America had come all the way to meet them, and that they were happy to meet a brother in Islam, and that all Muslims from all races and parts of the world share the same belief and the same heart. I was very shy visiting all those classrooms, because the students were all stearing at me, but still it was a great experience.



That's all for now. Peace.

I left Senegal last Sunday and arrived back in the Kansas City on Monday.

I want to continue adding to this thread as I remember and reflect on my trip. Everyones questions, comments, and input is appreciated and it has helped me in descibing the details of my trip.

More details about my trip...







-One of the other historical sites/museams that I visited was a crocodile cove in Bakou. I'm not really big on animals and wildlife, I don't know much about crocodiles, but I think the crocodiles at this site were unusual because I could touch them and interact with them and they were not aggressive with humans. This site also had hsitorical information on the city of Bakou about its music, history and traditions, I took pictures with a disposable there so I can remember more once the pics are developed.





-Even though the people in Gambia are Muslim they still carry some traditional beleifs that date way back. Like for example, at the museams I saw amulets and "ju-ju's" displayed that they believe ward off all kinds of evils. I was even talking to a rasta in Gambia, and I was trying to explain to him that ganga was peace and love in Gambia, but selling it in America could possibly bring violence your way from other dealers... and he told me he would be safe cause he would wear specific "ju-ju" that would ward off guns.

-Also, these West Africans were convinced that Micheal Jackson has converted to Islam. They insisted that they had proof. And they all had these Islamic songs on their cel phones and they were convinced that the voice in the songs was Micheal Jackson. The voice did sound a lot like Michael, but I know it's a a South African singer cause they have his cd at Islamic/African shop in my city. But they told me they cry when they hear his voice and when they heard Micheal moved to Bahrain and accepted Islam. They were so happy I didn't want to argue with them... they said the American media didn't want to talk about Michael anymore because they wanted Islam hidden from the people.



-I got an oppurtunity to speak in front of a full masjid of people in Senegal. I gave a lecture for about 15 minutes on Islam and how a West African brother had taught me about Islam when I was just 18, and what it was about him that inspired me, and other basics of the religion like unity and belief in One God. They really loved my lecture, they said they were very happy to hear from me. So I told them that I was a mirror, a reflection... because I was equally happy to meet all of them and that I was honored to be asked to speak to them. Many of them told me their favorite part of my speach was when I told them that most foriegners come to America and try to act like Americans and that this makes Americans automatically assume superiority, but that the first time I met a West African Muslim practicing Islam, I felt internally that right away he was the most sincere, generous, and virtuous person I had ever met... and that I wanted to learn from him and learn about his people, religion and way of life.

-The young West African's love 2pac and think that he's still alive. They pass rumors around about 2pac "alive theories" like we used to back in the late 90's.

...more later... peace

The People- Everyone did seem to have an innocence about them, almost regardless of who they were or what they were doing. Infact, the people I met who appeared not to have that innocence were the ones who had travelled abroad. Like as if they had lost something that was pure and innocent inside of them by travelling West. The people are all so eager for an oppurtunity to go to the West and make some money but when I look at some of them I know they wouldn't be happy is US or Europe. I even met some young men in Gambia who were in their late 20's and who seemed to be mentally ill... it was explained to me about them that they used to be the smartest in their class, but that they went to Europe and got involved in selling drugs and came back mentally ill.

The Homes- The whole time I was there I only felt stayed in one home that I actually felt comfortable. It was either too hot, or too many mosquitoes, or the water wasn't running in the bathrooms. Not always having soap around, or a trashcan or tissues. This is all stuff I had to get used to. The fact that I was living better than others around me helped me to overcome these conditions. Even the people I was staying with would sleep on the floor and let me stay in their beds. For example, in Senegal my friend who is a Gambian, had us stay at his wives family home for two days. So I got to actually stay in his wife's room, sleep in her bed, and he took the floor. She went upstairs and shared a room with her sisters and father. I have never received such genorosity as I experienced in Africa.

Family structure- It's a "respect culture" there, is what they call it. The young people say that if one of their elders like a mother, father, or aunt, uncle, grandmother... if one of their elders tells them to do something, especially when it's their mother, they better do it. Even if their mom tells them to go from one end of the city to another and back to get something small and insignificant, they have to try their best to get it done as quickly as possible. The families mostly live together there. They just keep building and adding on to their homes, so that homes almost resemble miniature apartment complexes.

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