My friend Idrissa's work in Africa:
It's well-known that in West Africa they have high unemployment. Certainly there are a wide range of opinions as to why this is. The most condemning side of the spectrum would claim that West Africans are lazy, while an opposite side of the spectrum would claim it is a result of oppression and subjugation that was exacted during the Colonial Period.
Myself, I am still researching this subject. I can only point out a few observations I made on my own. I notice that the culture there is much more free in the spirit than what we have in the West. Many people there prefer to own their own businesses, from millionaire property and real-estate owners with College Degree's from the West, to small-time street vendors selling watermelon and kola nuts; African's are very Libertarian in spirit. They prefer to work for themselves and not others, and that certainly fits the culture there.
So in saying this, I think it would be harder to implement large scale factory work in this region of Africa, such as you would see in Asia. Where you have a business owner employing thousands in hard labor while they receive very small compensation for their work.Also it wouldn't be likely to see gigantic franchises in the region such as a Wall-Mart or a McDonalds; because the people prefer smaller, mom and pop shops and ownership to mass employers such as Wall-Mart.
Hard and sometimes dangerous work does take place in this region. For example in the neighboring country of Sierra Leonne people risk their safety and health diving for diamonds, and dig extensively in the heat in hopes of finding a diamond, but even many of these people, work for themselves.
So I think there is more of a free-flow to the culture. Where they are sometimes socialistic in their politics yet in their individual economic and social lives very Libertarian. It is quite a unique balance.
...As for my friend, once again; some could call him lazy. There is a very negative stereotype that is associated with people such as my friends by their detractors. They dub them as "Bumsters" and even the ruler of Gambia Yaya Jammeh gets made fun of and called "The Bumster King" by his detractors. Because my friend is viewed as a population of youth who sit idle at the beach all day long, lazy, socializing in the sun, drinking tea, and hustling tourists from day to day. They are accused of damaging the moral fabric of society and of not contributing positively as "citizens" of the country. They are associated rightly or wrongly with peddling marijuana and accused of living off Western women much older than them.
But from another perspective it is also these people that provide much to the culture of these regions. Growing up poor and having to independently seek their income, they have had to be much more creative to make it in the society. Their creativity and ambition has provided much to the social fibric of society, both internally, and in communication and welcoming outsiders to the country, whom they at times have to depend upon financially. They are conduits to the night life, and understand both the Western world and the deeper roots of their own culture. Because they serve as conduits to both. Depending on each other and depnding on outsiders to make it, they know the life of Africa more than anyone. They are the people who live with the most freedom, and it is likely that many of them have been pushed into such a life by necessity, and not simply a matter of enjoyment. Regardless, they do all kinds of odd jobs to come up with their money throughout the day.
My friends nickname around the Gambia was "Silver". His Muslim name is Idrissa, but mostly he prefers "Silver". And this is why, his work and family business has been in two things, cars and silver. So one of his brothers is a car mechanic, one is a driver for diplomats in the country, and he works in Silver.
Here I am picking up a necklace from my friend's silver shop. I wanted something that represented Africa and the personal growth I experience when in African. There was no better choice than the African Boubab tree. It is a well-known symbol of Africa. It is a wide tree, with strong roots and great beauty. It grows often in the upcountry. When I was sick with food poisoning I was regularly drinking Boubab juice, it is believed to be a remedy for nearly all ailments, from Malaria to other stomach, digestive conditions.
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Senegalese/Gambian Music- Viviane Ndour
One of the best things about Senegal/Gambia is the music. Gambia is mostly Rasta/Reggae country. They were colonized by the British there, and with English being their official language, that makes Reggae music easy to listen to and understand for the people. They took to it very emphatically. I haven't been to many Sub-Saharan African countries, nor have I been to Jamaica, but still I would guess that their Reggae fans are as enthusiastic as any fans anywhere in the world. They truly love the music. And it was so refreshing to have one of them remind me to "listen closely to the words". Coming from America where all people care about is a catchy beat and a catchy hook, there is nothing more refreshing to me then to have someone silence me, have me "listen closely to the words" and even explain to me in detail what the artist is saying and the deeper meaning of the song. The lifestyle, and the heart and soul of the people really brings out the depth and substance of the Reggae music. I can't listen to Reggae back home in America, but when I'm in Africa I am more than happy to listen to it all day every day, because it moves in harmony with the lifestyle there. It's the push for positive thinking during times of worry and stress, and freeing the mind, and keeping a smile through it all... it is cliche in America but it is infectious in Africa; and it actually works there because people are closely related and care about one another.
Senegal, on the other hand was colonized by the French. I don't find many French styles of music, there, so they generally look internally, and have created their own styles of music and dance. The music is performed mostly in the indigenous Wolof language. The sound involves a lot of drumming, and an overall fullness of sound. One term used to describe it for people familiar with the region is Mbalax. And Viviane Ndour is my favorite artist, and she is called the "Queen of Mbalax".
Viviane Ndour apparently came up in the music industry through a connection with Senegal's internationally recognized superstar Yousou Ndour. People in the West may remember Yousou Ndour through his African tribute album in the early 90's and the epic song he did with Peter Gabrielle "In Your Eyes", that he performed with him all over the world. Nothing says Senegalese/African culture like Yousou Ndour. He is a huge Icon in the region.
So Viviane Ndour may have came up under Yousou Ndour's stardom as a back-up singer but she is certainly a gigantic star in her own right. Her style is certainly more updated and involves elements of hip-hop and American R&B. She even recognizes Aaliyah as one of her inspirations in music. The first time she heard "Are You Somebody" she actually thought it was a Senegalese song, because the sounds in the song are similar to those of Senegalese music. She did her own remix version of the song and it is excellent like all of her work.
She is half-Lebanese and half-Senegalese. A Senegalese mother and a Lebanese father. Yet I don't find much Lebanese influence in her music. Lebanese people, unlike the Mauritanian Arabs of Senegal/Gambia have integrated and immersed themselves in the region and appear to have become one with the natives.
I went to three Viviane shows in Gambia. Lucky for me she was promoting a new album at the time. So she made her stops in Gambia right around New Years Eve. I cut short all my plans and spent all 3 of my last nights in the country going around to her shows.
Her first show was at a Hotel in Gambia, and it was called a Gala Dinner. Very expensive with the cheapest tickets going for around 70$ US dollars and most expensive tickets for like $500 dollars; on top of that people would go on stage during her show and throw loads of money onto her, which is an old tradition in that region of Africa, to get on stage and dance with performers and even throw money on them.
The second night she performed at the most popular nightclub in Gambia called Club Duplex. The club was jam-packed, and inspite of the discouragement of my friends I went early (Africans never seem to want to go early to anything) and I was lucky enough to be in the front row because I went early. First people danced and they played music until the opening acts were ready to take the stage. The club kind of takes it's influences from an American club, it has two floors with a VIP section upstairs. They played some pretty great songs though before the show, one song that was really a huge hit for me during my time there was "Hold You" by Gyptian and that track really hit me that night. Also, they bumped Viviane Ndour's hit from the previous year "Amor" with Phillip Montenegro and even before the opening acts had even made it to the stage I was already feeling the night.
When the artists finally took the stage well after 12pm the MC for the night assured the people Viviane would rock the house till 5Am. Loads of people bouncing off each other like a mosh pit throughout the show because of the crowd. Sweating and thirsty people fought over water bottles handed out by the band during the show. I got up and danced on stage, and was started to get comfortable with the Senegalese style of dancing. Many people were jumping up to dance on stage, as they had the previous night. Once again they encouraged me to go up there, and people got a kick out of seeing a white person on stage like that. Viviane's performance was spectacular and the night was great. She rocked the club till 4am bringing in the New Year.
The last night she performed at a place called Dream Park, which is a small amusement park for kids. Many kids were at the show and in the front row, so this night I kind of kicked back with my friends and just watched the show. It wasn't intense like the previous night, but more fun for the kids. A lot of little kids got on stage and did their dances, and it was very impressive and entertaining to see. The show was a lot of fun. This picture is of Adama and I on the side of the stage/middle enjoying the show.
Senegal, on the other hand was colonized by the French. I don't find many French styles of music, there, so they generally look internally, and have created their own styles of music and dance. The music is performed mostly in the indigenous Wolof language. The sound involves a lot of drumming, and an overall fullness of sound. One term used to describe it for people familiar with the region is Mbalax. And Viviane Ndour is my favorite artist, and she is called the "Queen of Mbalax".
Viviane Ndour apparently came up in the music industry through a connection with Senegal's internationally recognized superstar Yousou Ndour. People in the West may remember Yousou Ndour through his African tribute album in the early 90's and the epic song he did with Peter Gabrielle "In Your Eyes", that he performed with him all over the world. Nothing says Senegalese/African culture like Yousou Ndour. He is a huge Icon in the region.
So Viviane Ndour may have came up under Yousou Ndour's stardom as a back-up singer but she is certainly a gigantic star in her own right. Her style is certainly more updated and involves elements of hip-hop and American R&B. She even recognizes Aaliyah as one of her inspirations in music. The first time she heard "Are You Somebody" she actually thought it was a Senegalese song, because the sounds in the song are similar to those of Senegalese music. She did her own remix version of the song and it is excellent like all of her work.
She is half-Lebanese and half-Senegalese. A Senegalese mother and a Lebanese father. Yet I don't find much Lebanese influence in her music. Lebanese people, unlike the Mauritanian Arabs of Senegal/Gambia have integrated and immersed themselves in the region and appear to have become one with the natives.
I went to three Viviane shows in Gambia. Lucky for me she was promoting a new album at the time. So she made her stops in Gambia right around New Years Eve. I cut short all my plans and spent all 3 of my last nights in the country going around to her shows.
Her first show was at a Hotel in Gambia, and it was called a Gala Dinner. Very expensive with the cheapest tickets going for around 70$ US dollars and most expensive tickets for like $500 dollars; on top of that people would go on stage during her show and throw loads of money onto her, which is an old tradition in that region of Africa, to get on stage and dance with performers and even throw money on them.
The second night she performed at the most popular nightclub in Gambia called Club Duplex. The club was jam-packed, and inspite of the discouragement of my friends I went early (Africans never seem to want to go early to anything) and I was lucky enough to be in the front row because I went early. First people danced and they played music until the opening acts were ready to take the stage. The club kind of takes it's influences from an American club, it has two floors with a VIP section upstairs. They played some pretty great songs though before the show, one song that was really a huge hit for me during my time there was "Hold You" by Gyptian and that track really hit me that night. Also, they bumped Viviane Ndour's hit from the previous year "Amor" with Phillip Montenegro and even before the opening acts had even made it to the stage I was already feeling the night.
When the artists finally took the stage well after 12pm the MC for the night assured the people Viviane would rock the house till 5Am. Loads of people bouncing off each other like a mosh pit throughout the show because of the crowd. Sweating and thirsty people fought over water bottles handed out by the band during the show. I got up and danced on stage, and was started to get comfortable with the Senegalese style of dancing. Many people were jumping up to dance on stage, as they had the previous night. Once again they encouraged me to go up there, and people got a kick out of seeing a white person on stage like that. Viviane's performance was spectacular and the night was great. She rocked the club till 4am bringing in the New Year.
The last night she performed at a place called Dream Park, which is a small amusement park for kids. Many kids were at the show and in the front row, so this night I kind of kicked back with my friends and just watched the show. It wasn't intense like the previous night, but more fun for the kids. A lot of little kids got on stage and did their dances, and it was very impressive and entertaining to see. The show was a lot of fun. This picture is of Adama and I on the side of the stage/middle enjoying the show.
The Upcountry, African Village life
The upcountry, village life of Africa was much different than I expected. People associate African villages with poverty, and I guess for some reason I pictured really hard working people with very hard lives. What I found was a lot of people sitting around with a lot of free time on their hands. I didn't see hard work. It was explained to me that it was a slow time of year, and that that was why I didn't see hard work. That in certain seasons they may be planting or working their farms and that you would see hard work. But for whatever it's worth, I didn't see it when I was there. I saw a lot of sitting around, and found a great deal of boredom in the upcountry.
I started the trip by arriving at my friends family home. They were older people, very friendly, they had a nice home, it had a television inside which may surprise people. In fact, their home was much larger and better furnished then my best friends family home back in the city. His uncles, grandparents, extended family there didn't seem any different from his family back in the cities. In fact most people who live in the upcountry travel back and forth between the country and the city. On our way back we brought his step-father with us.
The young man who took us around in the upcountry, basically grows Kola nuts in the upcountry for a time, then loads them up into a truck and takes them into the city at another time and sells them. So the life is back and forth for these people, from the village to the city.
Sure, there were some really authentic things in the villages that really let you know you were in an "African village". Such symbols of village African life as the straw huts, and people riding on donkeys were certainly still a part of daily life there.
One of Idrissa's cousins had his own small farm/garden that we spent some time in. He complained about the irrigation and spent hours hustling me about his problem of needing a water pump or something like that but I was only half paying attention. Because I am not a wealthy person or even middle class really. So I'm not really in position to help many more people then just my friend Idrissa and very very few others. But he hustled me without end. They have a bad habit especially in the villages of drinking palm wine. They will even try to claim that it is healthy and that it doesn't contain the harmful affects of alcohol, as alcohol is generally disliked amongst Muslims. Yet this cousin of Idrissa's the more he would drink that palm wine the more aggressive he was in hustling me about getting some kind of water pump or something of the like so that he could water his farm when the rain failed to come. I was half-asleep the whole time I was in the upcountry, and not really fully conscious of what he was saying. The village life had made me extremely lazy. I ate and ate and ate some more. And sat, and sat, and sat some more. Trying to understand the mostly Wolof language conversations that surrounded me.
Finally we left after 4 days in the village, upcountry, but I did not leave without food poisoning and couldn't eat for almost two days after that. All the idle time sitting and eating had slowed my digestive system and the food refused to "go down".
I was sick for two days after that trip and only earbs and boubab juice got me by during those two days. Alhamdulillah for the Boubab tree and Jah bless for the earbs.
I almost forget in my half-conscious state I was actually thrown a party on my last night in the upcountry. It's kind of a tradition when the guests come. I did have to pay a little money for the drummers, but once the drummers started playing many of the people from the village came out to the location and there were probably nearly 100 people there. I felt very overwhelmed and even a little uncomfortable. All that for me, and I couldn't even decide if I was truly enjoying myself there. The lead drummer was trying everything to get me excited and dancing and having a good time, and God bless him for that.
But I just couldn't get into it, feeling so tired and lazy during my days in the upcountry.
I started the trip by arriving at my friends family home. They were older people, very friendly, they had a nice home, it had a television inside which may surprise people. In fact, their home was much larger and better furnished then my best friends family home back in the city. His uncles, grandparents, extended family there didn't seem any different from his family back in the cities. In fact most people who live in the upcountry travel back and forth between the country and the city. On our way back we brought his step-father with us.
The young man who took us around in the upcountry, basically grows Kola nuts in the upcountry for a time, then loads them up into a truck and takes them into the city at another time and sells them. So the life is back and forth for these people, from the village to the city.
Sure, there were some really authentic things in the villages that really let you know you were in an "African village". Such symbols of village African life as the straw huts, and people riding on donkeys were certainly still a part of daily life there.
One of Idrissa's cousins had his own small farm/garden that we spent some time in. He complained about the irrigation and spent hours hustling me about his problem of needing a water pump or something like that but I was only half paying attention. Because I am not a wealthy person or even middle class really. So I'm not really in position to help many more people then just my friend Idrissa and very very few others. But he hustled me without end. They have a bad habit especially in the villages of drinking palm wine. They will even try to claim that it is healthy and that it doesn't contain the harmful affects of alcohol, as alcohol is generally disliked amongst Muslims. Yet this cousin of Idrissa's the more he would drink that palm wine the more aggressive he was in hustling me about getting some kind of water pump or something of the like so that he could water his farm when the rain failed to come. I was half-asleep the whole time I was in the upcountry, and not really fully conscious of what he was saying. The village life had made me extremely lazy. I ate and ate and ate some more. And sat, and sat, and sat some more. Trying to understand the mostly Wolof language conversations that surrounded me.
Finally we left after 4 days in the village, upcountry, but I did not leave without food poisoning and couldn't eat for almost two days after that. All the idle time sitting and eating had slowed my digestive system and the food refused to "go down".
I was sick for two days after that trip and only earbs and boubab juice got me by during those two days. Alhamdulillah for the Boubab tree and Jah bless for the earbs.
I almost forget in my half-conscious state I was actually thrown a party on my last night in the upcountry. It's kind of a tradition when the guests come. I did have to pay a little money for the drummers, but once the drummers started playing many of the people from the village came out to the location and there were probably nearly 100 people there. I felt very overwhelmed and even a little uncomfortable. All that for me, and I couldn't even decide if I was truly enjoying myself there. The lead drummer was trying everything to get me excited and dancing and having a good time, and God bless him for that.
But I just couldn't get into it, feeling so tired and lazy during my days in the upcountry.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
"Free Up"
Imagine if you were running alone in the middle of the Sahara. Suddenly, the location of all your thoughts and emotions would become clear. There is no longer the entanglements of modern life, and any happiness, bitterness, joy, or pain you will find exists somewhere inside of you, in your mind, heart, body, soul. Yet still God has chosen you to exist, and in spite of it all, there you are alone jogging in the Sahara and interacting with the environment. Somewhere in that you find yourself. That's how I would describe my feelings on mornings I had the chance to jog the beach of the Atlantic ocean at sunrise.
For people familiar with the region, on a good day I would jog all the way from Senegambia up to the Sheraton Hotel. I think it was maybe approximately 8 miles.
Along the way there would be other young guys training along the beach. It seems a typical day for many Gambian men consisted of early morning training at the beach just after sunrise. They are big into calisthenics, and any athletic training that improves flexibility, strength, agility, and skills used to perform at a high level in the sport of soccer.
Because some would train in the morning, then during the day, they would perform some work. Then by the time the sun began to fall they would be back at the beach for soccer matches that were scattered out all across that coast of Gambia around the Serrakunda region.
Generally the best way they describe their methods of training, and the phrase I find most fitting is "Free Up". They would always describe their training as "Freeing Up" the body. They turn, twist, jump, even shout, roll their heads, swing their arms, and so on... all to "free up" the body.. and often it frees the mind as well. And what better place to do it then overlooking an endless ocean on the Atlantic Coast.
For people familiar with the region, on a good day I would jog all the way from Senegambia up to the Sheraton Hotel. I think it was maybe approximately 8 miles.
Along the way there would be other young guys training along the beach. It seems a typical day for many Gambian men consisted of early morning training at the beach just after sunrise. They are big into calisthenics, and any athletic training that improves flexibility, strength, agility, and skills used to perform at a high level in the sport of soccer.
Because some would train in the morning, then during the day, they would perform some work. Then by the time the sun began to fall they would be back at the beach for soccer matches that were scattered out all across that coast of Gambia around the Serrakunda region.
Generally the best way they describe their methods of training, and the phrase I find most fitting is "Free Up". They would always describe their training as "Freeing Up" the body. They turn, twist, jump, even shout, roll their heads, swing their arms, and so on... all to "free up" the body.. and often it frees the mind as well. And what better place to do it then overlooking an endless ocean on the Atlantic Coast.
Monday, November 15, 2010
Flow- One Week to Departure
Just trying to get back into the flow of things. Author James Redfield writes about how we all follow a path in life, and how it is important for us to stay conscious of divine coincidences to push our personal evolution forward. So I'm starting to get back into the flow of things with just a week till departure.
I'm feeling the energy of my upcoming trip as it approaches me, and as I draw closer to departure I'm starting to take notice of coincidences surrounding me. Thoughts that have rested in the mud of my mind, have now emerged to the front and center. Lingering issues and questions are surfacing. People who were mere acquaintances are now becoming key figures in my life.
I've been slowly keeping up with all my contacts during my time away. But now my contacts here in the states and in Africa have been mobilized. Some friendships will stay the same, some will be forgotten, and I hope that most are being enhanced with every passing moment as my trip approaches and is giving life.
I'm feeling the energy of my upcoming trip as it approaches me, and as I draw closer to departure I'm starting to take notice of coincidences surrounding me. Thoughts that have rested in the mud of my mind, have now emerged to the front and center. Lingering issues and questions are surfacing. People who were mere acquaintances are now becoming key figures in my life.
I've been slowly keeping up with all my contacts during my time away. But now my contacts here in the states and in Africa have been mobilized. Some friendships will stay the same, some will be forgotten, and I hope that most are being enhanced with every passing moment as my trip approaches and is giving life.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Recap
My path, my place, my life, my love, my writing, my reading... just seeing the sun.
I remember this feeling
I felt it before...
It's like a child
when he first realizes he's "alive".
...That is a little something I wrote upon my arrival in Africa. It gives you a feeling of Deja-Vu, because the environment is so new and different, you can actually feel like a kid again. Another reason Africa has this affect is that before my generation became adults and isolated ourselves with ipods and iphones, we used to be out in the heat, sweating all day. In Africa even when your inside you are really outside. Air conditioning is rare, and homes and shops are not the closed and locked fortresses we find in America.
The first song I listened to was "Breathe" by Nas. He is one of my favorite rappers, and his new album didn't vibe with me as much as I had hoped. So I just put it away for a month or so, and waited till I was in a new environment to see if it opened my senses. And it did. Because when we listen to music its often the images they produce in our mind that make the song enjoyable to us. So I needed some new sights and sounds and memories.
But soon I would be looking forward to ditching my American music and trying on some new sounds of Gambia and Senegal. I was reminded of an interview I read by Nas' father in which he said the world would be a sad place without music. That music was how we communicate, and if you want to know the history of a people then listen to their music.
More then anything else I listen to the music and sounds of Africa when I'm there.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
